Must Read: Cathy Horyn on the Lack of Direction at New York Fashion Week, the Evolution of Backstage Beauty


Plus, how Cardi B scored a vintage Thierry Mugler couture look for the Grammys.

Looks from the Brandon Maxwell Fall 2019 collection. Photo: Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows

These are the stories making headlines in fashion on Tuesday.

Cathy Horyn on the lack of direction at New York Fashion Week 
"The rapid changes, and the crumbling of a structure that’s basically been in place for well over a century, account, I think, for a lack of conviction that’s evident at the New York shows," writes Cathy Horyn in her review of the designers who’ve showed thus far at New York Fashion Week for The Cut. "I don’t know how else to explain the dearth of truly interesting or relevant collections on the runway." She adds that designers have struggled with repetition (Sies Marjan), unnecessary references (Tory Burch) and ideas that still need to evolve (Brandon Maxwell). The Cut 

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The evolution of backstage beauty at fashion week 
Backstage beauty at fashion week has changed a lot in recent seasons. "Where once only an elite few editors and celebrities were allowed to witness an artists’ work before a show, social media now gives anyone a virtual backstage pass," writes Rachel Strugatz for Business of Fashion. "Cosmetics brands hire influencers to create content around the shows, while many of fashion’s favorite beauty artists, including
[Gucci] Westman, Pat McGrath, Charlotte Tilbury and hairstylist Sam McKnight, have brands of their own to promote." Business of Fashion 

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How Cardi B scored a vintage Thierry Mugler couture look for the Grammys 
Stylist Kollin Carter secured a vintage 1995-96
Thierry Mugler couture look for Cardi B to wear to Sunday night’s Grammy Awards by sliding into the brand’s DMs back in September. Shortly after, the label’s new creative director Casey Cadwallader invited Cardi and Carter to attend his debut runway show in October and visit the brand archives, where the stylist spotted the "Venus" sheath dress and embellished bodysuit. "From the moment I saw it, I knew it was going to be a debatable moment, some people would love it and some people would hate it and that’s everything we’re about when it comes to fashion," Carter told WWD. "It’s meant to create a conversation." WWD 

Out reveals its March issue spotlighting women and nonbinary femmes
In honor of Women’s History Month, Out dedicated its March issue to women and nonbinary femmes. Guest edited by Janet Mock, the issue marks the first time in almost three decades of publishing that the magazine features and is written, photographed and styled only by women and nonbinary femmes. The cover (see below) and accompanying profile, spotlight a series of Black queer and trans women, who are doing vital work around race, sexuality, gender and class. Out 

Fendi to open private luxury residences in Arizona
Fendi will design 41 residences in a condo tower at The Palmeraie, a luxury retail and residential development in Scottsdale, Arizona. Marco Costanzi, who created Fendi private suites and the Fendi headquarters in Rome, will head up the architecture and design for the building, which is set to open in 2020. WWD 

Why inclusive sizing is a must for all brands 
The day has come for designers and retailers to work for all women, because those that don’t risk losing billions in sales: "67 percent of American women are a size 14 and are voicing their need for fashionable products regardless of size," said Kayla Marci, market analyst at retail and fashion technology firm Edited, in an interview with Retail Dive. "This is a need that brands can no longer afford to ignore." Retail Dive 

Zilingo wants to help turn social media stars into fashion labels
Zilingo started in 2015 as a marketplace where consumers in Singapore, Thailand and other Southeast Asian countries could buy fashion and beauty products. But its most recent growth has come from services, with the company handling everything from connecting designers and suppliers to managing inventory and arranging short-term financing to manufacturers. Zilingo is now targeting influencers, because they have massive, loyal followings that guarantee an early rush of sales, but don’t necessarily know how to set up a global supply chain and distribution system. Their first U.S. client, Youtuber Comic Book Girl 19, is set to launch her label next week, and several others are in the works for later this year. Business of Fashion 

Lara Stone on body confidence 
Despite a successful modeling career that spans more than a decade and includes some of the biggest names in fashion,
Lara Stone hasn’t always felt so comfortable with her body. Now, as a 35-year-old mom, the model opened up to InStyle about how she’s learned to be proud of who she is and to stop worrying about how she may or may not appeal to clients. InStyle 

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